The Gym Concept – An authentic culinary discovery in Old Town Nicosia

From coriander root puree and braised pork cheeks to commandaria-yuzu and kouloumbra green apple slaw. “The Gym” is a place where old-school class meets new-world creativity; where true artisans fuse their fine-dining flair with a locally-sourced fare.

When you scratch below the surface, some restaurants are much more than they appear to be. The Gym is one such restaurant. Read on to learn more about this authentic discovery in Old Town Nicosia.

Before we continue, I’d like to share my motivation behind this laudatory post. As a career hotelier, and food and beverage manager, I have spent the last 20 years passionately working in luxury hotels, fine restaurants, and trendy bars. In many ways, food and beverage, has always been a big part of my life.

In an effort to share this passion with my readers, I’m introducing a restaurant review series with the purpose of memorializing the best meals, and restaurant experiences I’ve had. Having found few meals that truly impress, I feel those that do, deserve a special word of mention and applause.

I must add that I have not been offered anything in return for writing this article – these views are my own and based purely upon my experience.

the discovery.

It’s Saturday night, date night, and my Nat is looking for a cool place for us to enjoy our weekly night out. “Something light, something casual, but let’s visit the Old Town for a change”, we agreed.

While scouring Instagram for restaurants in Old Town, we came across this post on Instagram. I’m a complete sucker for a good burger, so naturally, this post caught my eye, and immediately got me salivating.

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Not necessarily “something light”, but at least we’re going toThe Gym; the name satisfies my conscience and somehow lessens the guilt. “Let go to The Gym!”

Nat called ahead: reservation for two, dinner at 8 pm.

thegym. concept.

This restaurant is quite a difficult outlet to define. The Gym Concept falls somewhere between a sophisticated gastro-bar and a casual fine dining bistro. I suspect that COVID had a card to play in the transition from the packed upmarket after-work cocktail venue to the now stylish casual gastro-inspired bistro-esque restaurant.

I can’t help but imagine how vibey and trendy this spot must have been pre-COVID. The bar itself is rather grand, set in the old stone walls with glass, mirror, and brass finishings. The decor is artistic, modern, and almost industrial with beautiful high ceilings, giving it almost a warehouse vibe. The concept is pulled off perfectly and blends well in this fully restored historical sidestreet building of rustic Old Town Nicosia.

thegym. gallery shop.

The concept combines the restaurant and bar with a gallery and shop. A place where you can chill out, eat, drink, and shop. Sounds like quite a workout…

Tucked away in a back room you’ll find a wonderfully interesting curation of art, jewellery, interior design pieces, and a rather alternative selection of books. There you’ll find anything from ceramic stoneware, abstract canvas paintings, and bohemian crystal vases to Alice-in-Wonderland-inspired jewellery and books on architecture and graphic novels.

Look a little deeper and you’ll understand why there is a “No Entry Under 18” sign at the entrance. You’re welcome! I was particularly tempted by the book on Tarot, which has always interested me.

The building itself boasts a long and interesting past, steeped in history. The building was constructed over 160 years ago, built over of one of the wells in this quarter of the Old City. The bare stone walls tell stories of the past, with decades of scars and marks left from all the modifications, demolitions, and rebuilds – walking through this place one can only imagine all souls that once passed through here.

Tucked away in the back is a gorgeous sunny atrium that is as much an indoor garden as it is a courtyard. An extension of the restaurant, I can only imagine this open-air lounge area being divine in the morning while enjoying your coffee and brunch.

I haven’t tried the brunch menu as yet, but judging by their Instagram, it’s a must!

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first impressions.

Arriving at the restaurant, approaching the entrance, I immediately realized that The Gym is no mere burger bar. The chic decor, warm lighting, and vibrant atmosphere lend to a more sophisticated establishment. The ambience is lively, classy, and welcoming. With a mix of ex-pats, tourists, and locals enjoying their drinks – we immediately felt at home.

Greeted at the entrance by one of the servers; he ushered us through the lush green facade that separates the open-air terrace from the bustling street and guided us to our table.

Presented with the menu, I was a little sad to learn that the burger I was so eagerly looking forward to, was only available on their brunch menu. I quickly came to the conclusion that the Chef undoubtedly reserves the evenings for a more sophisticated and classy offering – as could be expected.

As I scanned over the dinner menu, I realized that there was a lot more to this restaurant than I had initially thought; and my desire for a trifling burger faded. The à la carte is comprised of only five starters, five main dishes, and one dessert. Not many options, but each dish was equally tempting. With tough decisions ahead, I set the à la carte down on the table, and focused my attention to the cocktail menu. First things first.

thegym bar philosophy.

The drinks menu at The Gym boasts a well-curated assortment of beverages ranging from high-quality coffees and expertly selected wines to exquisitely rare and premium spirits.

The wine list is compiled by their in-house Sommelier, comprising of a carefully selected range of Cypriot, Greek, and international wines that would appeal to even the most sophisticated palate. They have a selection of “Old Vintages” and about eight wines that are exclusive to The Gym – found nowhere else on the island.

The cocktail list would be at home in any London bar – with a fantastic selection of classics and traditional favourites, even the most well-travelled cocktail enthusiast would be impressed, and satisfied.

Cocktails are lovingly prepared by their talented mixologist, infusing their signature cocktails with exotic and Mediterranean flavours. All syrups and purees are cooked and prepared in-house. This level of meticulous detail ensures all their cocktails are not only delicious but unmistakenly unique and fresh.

thegym food lab.

In an era where so many young chefs are speeding towards irresistible glimmer and glamour of culinary fame and fortune, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant trying something fresh and creative, without the pretentious and stuffy protocols that come with this style of cuisine.

The Gym’s foodie foundation is built on a cooking style that is simple but unmistakenly creative. All their produce is sourced locally with “an ultimate attention to freshness” and a scratch-cooking philosophy – everything is produced in-house.

Supporting local producers, everything on their menu is supplied daily, from farm to table. Even the tuna for the tataki is supplied fresh by a specific local fisherman, so when the catch is poor, sadly, there’s no tataki.

It’s refreshing to discover restaurants that follow these sustainable practices, it’s commendable in today’s times. Being from the industry, I know firsthand how difficult it is to stick to these morals and sustain this way of sourcing and procuring goods. Kudos!

The menu itself is very attractive and easy to read, with a simple black font on waxed white card. Descriptions are short and to the point, highlighting only the main components of each dish and omitting any fancy poetic lingo. Again, lending to the casual and unpretentious atmosphere. The translations of ingredients and cooking terminology are accurate, which is rare, in my personal experience.

to start.

The meal starts with sourdough bread that’s baked in-house using several different types of flour. Thinly sliced, slightly toasted, and served hot with rustic coarse sea salt and organic olive oil on the side. The warmth, mix of flavours, and textures were just magical and a great way to open the palate before the meal.

The entrees are all equally enticing. With vegetarian options like a vegan noodle salad or the roasted beet and crispy goat cheese salad; and Mediterranean-inspired dishes like the citrus-infused sea bass ceviche and the tuna tataki with fresh avo and ponzu sauce.

I opted for the fifth option: the mini burgers. Even though my mission was to have a burger that night, it was a still very tough decision. The dish includes three mini slider-style burgers with smoked cheese and bacon mayo. The mini patties were cooked medium, perfectly caramelized, juicy, and layered in fresh poppy seed buns with crisp butter lettuce, smoked cheese, and bacon mayo.

I absolutely loved these little pockets of deliciousness!

to follow.

The main course options are well structured considering there are only five dishes to choose from. Each plate is relatively simple and yet somewhat complex. Simple in a way that makes it easy to understand, and complex in that each individual dish includes noble components that are prepared in a sophisticated way.

For example; squid or octopus risotto is a common fixture on many up-scale restaurant menus, but at The Gym, this is a black cuttlefish ink risotto with squid. The black ink is a very nice touch and adds a clear sophisticated touch to an otherwise common dish.

“We’ll have the braised pork cheeks, and the sea bass please.”

the sea bass.

Sea Bass is one of the most sustainable fish options in the Mediterranean. Thus, it is also a popular restaurant dish in many restaurants all over Europe.

What sets this dish apart is the way the fish is cooked with the skin on. Firstly, the fish is today-fresh, the white flesh is incredibly tender, slightly salted, spiced, and “moelleux” with a super crispy and deliciously edible skin. Secondly, the other condiments of the dish are so moreish, it’s hard to decide on what the main element is. The cauliflower puree, beetroot-hibiscus sauce, and curried salad all bring this dish together into a harmonious union of “umami”!

the braised pork cheeks.

Most restaurants that prepare a braised pork main, would usually use tenderloin, belly, or chops. The cheeks are a much more sophisticated cut, a “noble” cut. As the name would suggest, these little nuggets of flesh are found in the cheek of the pig.

Pork is notoriously difficult to cook and prepare in a way that doesn’t’ resemble Gran’s Sunday roast, or a leather shoe. It’s a real art to cook pork à la carte; retaining the moisture, natural pork flavours, and texture is the real challenge. They nailed it! This dish is coupled with commandaria-yuzu, roasted carrots, and a parsnip puree. All the individual elements of this dish come together so well, each complimenting each other and so tasty on their own. Gran would be proud.

These dishes are not only thoughtfully designed, but exceptionally well-executed, and also plated in a way that just begs to be Instagrammed. The plates were warm and clean…

This is a classic example of “underpromise and overdeliver”, the menu clearly underpromises and the artisans in the kitchen are overdelivering. Well done Chef!

to finish.

I’m definitely more of a “savoury” guy than a “sweet” guy; and in my opinion, there are few restaurants that actually pull off the dessert course in a way that compliments a good meal. So, I refuse to settle on the traditional creme brulee or fondant chocolate, simply to sweeten my palate.

I will generally skip dessert and enjoy a good digestive or after-dinner cocktail. But, when the Chef is confident enough to offer only one dessert on the menu – I’m most definitely going to try it.

Bitter chocolate cremeux, espresso meringues, oat crumble, and a malt whisky ice cream.

I will repeat myself, I was not paid or offered anything in return for writing this article.

This dessert blew my mind! I would go back just for this one dish. The texture of the cremeux with the oat crumble and meringue; the whisky, espresso, and bitter chocolate flavours all combine so perfectly in the mouth. This dessert is the definition of a foodgasm!

It might seem like a mess on a plate; like there wasn’t much thought that went into it, but I promise you – more thought and planning went into this one dish, than most restaurants put into their whole menu – this dessert will change your life!

to close.

The management are quite active on Instagram, and for good reason – they have one of the most Instagrammable restaurants in Nicosia – be sure to tag the @thegymconcept and they will likely share your posts or stories.

It is imperative to make a booking, especially over the weekends. All menus are available for download from the website.

Contact Details & Social Links

Phone: 22 002001

Email: info@thegymconcept.com

Website: https://thegymconcept.com

Facebook | Instagram

final musings.

If you follow me on Instagram or scroll through my posts on Facebook you would have noticed that I travel often; I absolutely love staying in luxury hotels, dining in fine restaurants, and enjoying the odd pamper session in the spa.

Having spent 20 years working in the industry, I have an intimate knowledge of both back and front-of-house operations in hotels, as well as restaurants. As a perfectionist, with a trained eye for detail, and as an empath, I notice a lot more than your average patron.

The above quote is so true to the service industry. People might come for the “burger” or the “pork cheeks”, but soon they will forget the flavours, the sides, and what wine or cocktail they had – but they will never forget how you made them feel. It’s your hospitality that brings them back, time and time again.

I have an astounding level of understanding and compassion for my fellow hospitality colleagues. Shit happens, and often these things are simply out of our control. What’s important though, is that we always put the guest first, always! When we focus on offering genuine, and honest hospitality, there is no situation that is “out-of-control”.

For this reason, you will never see a negative post on my blog. I will not name and shame an establishment for underdelivering on my expectations. I would much rather write glowing articles, like this one, because it’s much more fun and hey, let’s share some positivity in a crazy world!

And, in the event I have a bad experience, I would rather offer my support or constructive feedback – in whatever form that might be.