My trip to Kefalonia last month, amidst rising COVID cases in Greece, was spontaneous. When my good old friend (and big sea lover) invited me to her Kefalonian roots, I felt blissful. Two days later, I was on the bus to Patra to board the ferry to the Ionian island. This article is about Kefalonia in four days, Greek hospitality, and the Greek summer trademarks –– genial people, long swims, and delightful wine. 

Scattered across 781 km2, Kefalonia is the sixth biggest island in Greece. However, with organisation, friends in sync, and the right weather, you can see Kefalonia’s best in four days. Continue reading to witness the grace of Kefalonia day by day. 

Day 1

The journey from Patra to Kefalonia lasts three hours, and the ferry docks at Sami at 5 PM. Sami is the main port of Kefalonia with a waterside strip. The lush steep hills surrounding the town are a compelling first impression of the beauty that will unfold before your eyes in the following days. Only two kilometers away from one of Kefalonia’s must-visit sights, we drove right out to Melissani. Regardless of whether you choose to believe the sad myth (no spoilers) connected with the cave’s name, this natural highlight is mythical.

We followed a short underground tunnel to reach the lake inside the cave. A small wooden boat was waiting for us. A guide maneuvered for about 15 minutes in the two separate halls of Melissani. Since 1953, when a catastrophic earthquake struck Kefalonia, the first hall ceiling has a direct opening to the blue skies. The sunlight landing on the lake’s surface, and sinking into the 30-meters deep water, creates a game of colors and visual illusions. In the second hall stalagmites, stalactites, and peculiarly-shaped rocks grow all around the cave. 

After Milissani, we drove for a few minutes to the 2,000,000 years old Drogarati cave. Not as impressive as Melissani, Drogarati is 60 meters under the ground and has excellent acoustics. Actually, before COVID, concerts and other events were happening in the cave. Bear in mind that the temperature down there is no more than 18 degrees Celsius, meaning that a light jacket will come in handy.  

No day in Kefalonia can end without a dip into the island’s crystal clear waters. Antisamos, in hindsight, my favorite beach, is 5 km northeast of Sami, secluded into a densely vegetated gulf. The Blue Flag beach is covered with velvety white pebbles and is probably the best beach in Kefalonia for snorkeling. There’s plenty of space for those who wish to drop their towel and enjoy nature without the amenities (beanbags, double-bed loungers, etc.). Nevertheless, we refreshed ourselves at the wooden beach bar and soaked in the serene setting. Surprisingly, the floating yachts are adding to the picturesque scenery rather than being sore to the eyes.  

In the evening, we headed to Lixouri in the Paliki Peninsula, where my base would be for the following four days. Lixouri is a small town with a central piazza on which you will find food and drink options. My apartment was on the long sandy beach melting into clear and slightly colder than the usual water. Ideal for early morning swims to get you going.

Day 2

Boat rides give you access to experiences and perspectives that cannot be found on land. The sunrises and sunsets aren’t the same from a boat; neither is the air’s feel against your face. Not to mention the taste of a cold beer. So, when I was invited on a boat ride from Lixouri to White Rocks, I felt blessed with good luck. As was the case for the entire duration of my trip, the weather was glorious, allowing us to anchor amidst the turquoise waters. The bright white, limestone cliffs and the white sand beach gave the impression that we were on a tropical island rather than in Greece. Here, you gain this sense of freedom and solitude since the beach is only accessible by boat. In high season, the good news is that companies organise frequent cruises to White Rocks and other remote beaches.

After a short siesta, we squeezed another beach in our day, less than ten kilometers away from Lixouri. Megas Lakkos is the natural continuation of Xi beach. It is known for its rocks of clay for facial and body treatments. The sand is notably red and hot, and the beach is well-organized with sunbeds, parasols, water sports, and a parking lot. For freshly cooked seafood and flavourful local wine while enjoying panoramic sea views, take your seat at Sparos Bistrot. Since I was with a group of Kefalonians and regulars, I also benefited from the personalized and attentive service. Here, I tried the indigenous white wine from Robola grape (not to be confused with the Italian Ribolla). 

Day 3

Kefalonia is mostly known for its heavenly beaches. Therefore, no wonder on day three, we headed to a different beach. We drove to the fishing village of Zola, at the northern tip of Paliki Peninsula. From the little port, we embarked on a taxi boat that took us and our camping supplies to Fteri beach, inside the Gulf of Myrtos. The boat ride itself is a memorable experience that will grow your Instagram. 

Later, I found out that you can also hike to Fteri beach. The 40-minute hike is not the easiest due to some steep slopes, and the way back requires some climbing skills. If you decide to hike to Fteri, remember to wear comfortable shoes and follow the green and red marks.

Once at Fteri, enjoy lying on the spa-like white pebbles and swimming in the deep waters. I was there at the end of August, yet the crowds were still arriving in hordes, as well as the yachts. Remember that the beach is wild. Thus, you won’t have access to water and food unless you have brought your own. Also, there’s no shade, apart from under the cliffs at the back end of the beach. When you are ready to leave, you can call the taxi boat skipper to come and collect you. We left with one of the last boats, just after the sunset.

Even though Argostoli is no more distinctive than a typical urban area, we visited it for the hustle and bustle, and small souvenir shopping. The easiest way to reach Argostoli from Sami is by the hourly car ferry that sails for about 30 minutes. The first thing that you notice at the capital of Kefalonia is how newly-built it is. Indeed, since Argostoli was laid flat in the 7.3 magnitude earthquake almost 70 years ago. Here, you won’t see the historical charm other island towns have. So, don’t expect to wander in cobbled lanes and medieval fortresses. However, Argostoli is full of life, broad shopping streets, and chic bars and restaurants.    

Day 4

On my last day in Kefalonia, we drove along the northwest side of the island. From Lixouri, we headed north to Myrtos beach — Kefalonia’s most panoramically photographed location. Before you take the zigzagging road down to the beach, stop at the roadside viewpoint to put things into perspective. Below are the blue waters and the white beach, graced by lush mountainous forests. In high season, the traffic to the  beach is horrendous. So, I felt fortunate to experience more of nature and less of human intervention. 

We continued to Fiskardo on the northern tip of Kefalonia. Fiskardo is the only Kefalonian village that didn’t suffer massive destruction in the earthquake, hence the original Venetian architecture. About 50 years ago, Fiskardo must have been this quaint fishing village, waiting to be explored. However, today, Firskardo is one of the most cosmopolitan hubs in the Ionian Islands. The harbor is filled to the brim with luxurious yachts, and the waterfront with upmarket seafood restaurants and posh boutiques. But don’t get me wrong — Fiskardo is rather welcoming and definitely not snobbish. Keep in mind that at lunchtime mobs of day boat cruises arrive in Fiskardo, making it tough to find a dining seat. If you want to escape the crowds, rent a boat (no license needed), and cover up to three nautical miles, depending on the weather.   

On our way back, we stopped at tiny Assos for lunch. Heads up, in July and early August parking is an issue here. The village’s life revolves around a pine-tree-lined harbor. A small and crowded beach is ideal for a short swim, and a couple of taverns limit the time of debating where to eat. Atop, a Venetian fortress is overlooking the village and invites you to a rewarding hike. 

My trip to Kefalonia is almost over, but by now, I feel immersed in the island. Four days were enough to swim in the best beaches Kefalonia offers and see some of the most scenic views in Greece. As the sun is descending, we drive to Petani beach to catch the breathtaking sunset. Again, we are lucky with the condition of the sea, which is calm and clear. We set our spot up further away from the organized area, close to the rocks at the far end. The sunset is magical from inside the cooling water. While admiring it, I consider myself privileged to be part of this magnificent moment. 

NB: A big thank you to my hosts in Kefalonia. Not only they spent every day with me, showing me around, but they were wholeheartedly in the present moment. My holiday in Kefalonia is among the best trips I have taken thanks to you. 

Additional tips

• Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands with 250 km of coast. Thus, you need a car to cover long distances. However, bear in mind that driving in Kefalonia isn’t a piece of cake due to the hairpin turns and steep inclines. 

• You don’t have to be a boat owner to enjoy Kefalonia. Many companies organize day cruises in the sea or provide taxi boats to take you to secluded beaches. 

• Kefalonia is a popular island, which is at its busiest between June and mid-August. If you can afford off-season traveling, I highly recommend it. You will get to see more of nature and receive higher quality services. 

• If you are in Kefalonia in September, visit one of the wineries to witness the harvesting of the local Robola grapes. 

• The sea can be very rough in Kefalonia with humongous waves. One has to be careful and alert. Many beaches are Blue Flag and have lifeguards. 

• Don’t leave before trying the Kefalonian Mandoles — a nutty candy made of almonds, sugar, and seaweed coloring.